The raucous gabbling of blue-winged kookaburras wakes me at first light. Through the mosquito netting I can see the spiky outline of pandanus trees and a grassy floodplain that spreads to the horizon. Making my way to the main lodge for a dawn breakfast I take care to avoid steaming buffalo deposits along the path. I’m walking on the wild side in Australia’s Top End yet feel I could be in Africa.
Swim Creek Station on the Mary River, about 200 km east of Darwin, is a massive working property for buffalo and cattle. The luxury wilderness camp Bamurru Plain on the property is similar to an African safari lodge yet distinctly Australian in character, thanks to an adept use of weathered, corrugated iron and dark hardwoods – not to mention those cackling kookaburras.
The walls of each Bamurru bungalow are made of a special netting which is see-through from inside, yet opaque to anyone outside. Buffalo, brumbies and Brahmin cattle regularly wander through the camp, day and night, and often graze placidly right outside my room. Nine bungalows are strategically placed either side of the central dining room and lounge. There’s a wooden deck with a small swimming pool overlooking the floodplain. With a cold beer in hand while watching buffalo silhouetted against the fiery crimson of a Top End sunset I most definitely feel I’m on safari.
The month of May, the end of “the Wet”, is an ideal time to visit the Top End. With so much ground water lying about we are able to explore with ease, skimming across the floodplain in a V8 air-boat. Bamurru is an Aboriginal word for magpie geese and there are thousands of these majestic birds breeding among the grasses. Our noisy propeller-driven passage clearly disturbs some geese although others remain unperturbed. The birdlife at Bamurru is equals to anything I’ve seen in Africa. Flocks of whistling ducks inhabit a low barrage immediately in front of camp. They regularly take to the air in a seething, whirling brown cloud then settle again with pinpoint precision.
Buffalo splash through the shallows in search of higher, dryer land. We watch others wallow contentedly in deep hollows of churned grey mud. Thick mangrove forests at the farthest edge of the floodplain are all that separate us from the immense mud flats along Australia’s northern coastline. The Mary River region is known for huge saltwater crocodile population and we are acutely aware these secretive, stealthy predators are constantly lurking unseen nearby.
Find out more: Bamurru Plains