A fun ride through Fiji’s salad bowl

_MG_0288Captain Sparrow thrusts the throttle forward to send our jet boat lunging up river through rolling brown water. Josh Ratukuna, our young skipper, styles himself from the Johnny Depp handbook, wearing cool bandana and wrap-around sunglasses.

It’s part of the fun of a high-speed thrill ride into the green heart of Fiji’s Sigatoka Valley.

We’re racing up the Sigatoka River exploring what’s known as Fiji’s ‘salad bowl’. The valley’s a prime source of fresh fruit and vegetables for locals and for hotels along Fiji’s Coral Coast. The half-day river ride is a great chance to see farms, plantations and gardens along the river bank and learn a bit about village life. It’s one of Fiji’s top tourist attractions.

The Sigatoka is the longest river on Fiji’s main island of Vitu Levu, flowing from deep within the hills of Navosa province to the sea at Kulukulu on the Coral Coast. Until the late 1950s, this was the only route inland and it took days to travel upriver from the coast to Navosa.

_MG_0291Not any more! We power round bends, passing farmers on horseback and cooling off in the river. Women washing clothes on the river bank merrily return our waves, apparently unfazed by our hasty, noisy progress. Josh regularly stops the boat in mid-river to chat about our surroundings and answer questions. The Sigatoka, he says, provides water for both drinking and crop irrigation and a bounty of fish, eels, prawns and fresh water mussels.

_MG_0338Our ride upriver takes us to Natawatawadi, one of six villages participating in the mini-safari program. Each village is paid a small sum to host the jet boat, which visits a different village on each journey to minimize visitor impact while also distributing income. In addition, visitors club together to raise a small donation.
After a brief introductory talk while sitting in the cool shade of the village church, we meet the village chief and elders in the community hall where lunch is waiting; plates of grilled chicken, fried vegetables, fresh fruits and orange cordial.
_MG_0330

Natawatawadi youngsters

As we eat we hear more about community culture and protocol and then participate in a traditional kava ceremony, sipping murky brown liquid from a wooden bowl. The kava numbs the lips and tongue a bit. Taken in quantity it’s soporific.

The villagers put on a short show of song and dance, after which we make our farewells and return to the river. As we clamber back into the jet boat I see a gleam come into Captain Sparrow’s eye. And soon our river ride gets frisky.

_MG_0346Choosing his moment, Josh yells a warning then flicks the throttle. A deft twist on the wheel and the boat dips its nose into the river and flicks around in a heart-stopping lurch and we’re all drenched in spray. It’s just like a fun park ride.

Our squeals echo off the high riverbank each time Captain Sparrow executes another stomach-churning pirouette. And so it goes  …. until he flicks back the throttle and we settle into a tranquil glide through fertile farmland.

 All about Fiji Travel

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Music on the water

It’s early evening on Prince Edward Island and the beer, mussels and music are flowing freely aboard the small ship MV Fairview while it chugs leisurely around Charlottetown harbour.

It’s been grey and overcast much of the day and now it’s getting pretty chilly standing out on deck. But we are being blessed with the unfolding joys of an unexpected and marvellous sunset. A gleaming sheen spreads across the darkening swell like a gift from the Gods.

Inside the Fairview’s snug cabin, the steamed island blue mussels are piping hot and the local ale well chilled. An on-board ceildih is in full swing as local whiz musicians Cynthia Macleod and Jon Matthews, on violin and guitar, segue a stream of infectious, foot-stomping Gaelic reels and jigs that are guaranteed to warm the cockles of the heart.

See and hear for yourself how they swing ….

This is surely one of the finest ways to party while on the Gentle Island; nothing at all fancy, simply a small group of happy souls afloat, enjoying a short cruise beneath a glorious sunset accompanied by tasty morsels and lively toe-tapping tunes. I can’t think of a better recipe for baking a lasting memory.

# This lively, joyous music is a hallmark of Canada’s most Celtic Province. Regular ceilidh are held at various locations around the island and could easily form the basis of a devoted fan’s Celtic music itinerary.

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